The Chronicles of Moby Who?
|
© 2008 Gail Hunter
o
Sunday, April 13; At precisely 11:19 a.m. the first of the cold fronts came through. Oh,
my! the scurrying and hub-bub going on at the campsite opposite us. They had a bunch of
kids and dogs living in a pup tent outside the camper. The camper's awning was out when
the big wind blew through. Dogs barked and howled, depending on their size; kids scurried
to disassemble the awning...and the rain started to fall. 45 seconds and it was all over.
Time to move on - due in Venice April 15th
|
Time to reminisce about my days of driving a small van of sightseers around Florida and in
particular the trips to see Lake Okeechobee. It was popular enough that I "hired" Cor to
come along with a second van. We'd arrive at the Clewiston Inn for coffee and danish at
"Tensie" time.
Next we took the people over to the Clewiston Historical Museum where they would
watch a movie about the town's beginnings and the sugar industry. At that time, the curator
had a memorable collection of antique toasters on display.
This would be followed by lunch at a fish camp on the Seminole reservation featuring
alligator bits (tough and tasteless - kind of like calamari without the sauce) An elevated
platform nearby afforded a comprehensive view of Okeechobee's vastness.
On the way home we always stopped at the Cypress Knees Museum, a unique collection
of sculptures made from cypress knees. This was a one-man show. His signage on Rt-27
consisted of several cypress arches laid out a la Burma Shave. We didn't see them today.












Rows of young sugar cane showing the fertile soil,
"Black Gold." The nutrients occurred naturally by
eons of buildup flowing down the river from
Kissimmee. As you go south, the depth of the black
gold decreases, as do the number of sugar fields.
The land eventually becomes more adapted to
vegetable farming.
When I put this photo of a sugar section "burn" on my computer,
the image of a white dove (of Peace?) made itself clear. I hope it is
meaningful! I once had heard the fields were burned to rid the rows
of rats and snakes before the cane cutters entered them. Now, I'm
told they are burned to rid the lower parts of the cane - up to 5 or 6
feet - of dead leaves, making the harvesting easier.
From left: metal arm protector, leather gauntlet, steel
leg guards, machete. Until a few years ago, cane
cutters were recruited from Jamaica. Not only were
they more skilled at the extremely difficult and
dangerous job, but once welfare reform took place,
Americans could not be found to do the work.
The Jamaicans would come without their families, live in
company housing during the harvest, then return home
when the season was over.
Tools of the cane cutters' trade
Now cut by mechanical means, sugar cane is grown in sectors. When one sector's cane
has reached ultimate height, it is cut down. Bare fields are then plowed in neat rows and
lengths of cut, deleaved cane are laid flat in the furrows. The cane has "eyes" similar to
potatoes. These "eyes" sprout thereby beginning a new producing sector. The sugar
company works constantly in their labs to produce better, stronger cane.
Museum Director, Butch Wilson
showing Cor a scale used to weigh
ramie. The sheaves were then sent
to England to produce fabric.
Attempting to revisit the toaster display, I contacted the
museum's new director, Butch Wilson. This spooked him
as he knew nothing about it, but someone from the Palm
Beach paper had called him a day earlier about it. "Was
that you?" No. The museum had moved and many exhibits
were still in boxes. Butch did turn up this one toaster. Now
he's intrigued and will try to track down the others. We had
seen at least 50 - some extremely wierd.
A little early for "Tensies" but that would not deter us from stopping at the
Clewiston Inn for a bite to eat. Cor was excited by the reasonable
prices and seeing his favorite breakfast, hash with an egg on the menu,
he succumbed to temptation. Here, he is served by Annette Spears, a
graphic artist waiting for the right job to come along.
Seated behind Cor is missionary Thelma ......, one of two Daughters of Our Lady of The
Light. The Order is based in Merida, Yucatan.They are sent to Clewiston to help the migrant
field workers cope with all sorts of problems. After ten months here, they return home for two
months of "renewal" before their next stint.
A glimpse of the extraordinary 360-degree wildlife mural in the
lounge at the Inn. Painted in oil on canvas from sketches he
made while staying at the Inn in the early 1940s, renowned artist
J. Clinton Shepherd completed the mural in 1945. For more
about the newly-renovated Inn and its history, see:
Reaching Butch was a stroke of good luck. He welcomed us to the new museum, played us a
video of Clewiston's rich history and told us the enchanting story of his life - growing up in this
once-remote area of Florida when it was wild. He told of hunting frogs with his father; his later
commercial fishing; getting his degree in History and Religion; and finally, the fortunate
opening of a job as Director of the Clewiston Historical Museum. In parting, Butch pointed
out, "I am a real Florida Cracker." They're getting rarer by the day.
OFF TO FIND THE ANTIQUE TOASTERS AT THE CLEWISTON HISTORICAL MUSEUM
|
Closed
Open
Between Clewiston and Venice, we passed many
trucks being loaded at the orange groves. In
this photo you can see the school bus used to
bring workers from their homes. Once shabby,
the company housing is very up-to-date and
clean; the old ways have given way to new.
THE LOVE BUGS ARE COMING! THE LOVE BUGS ARE HERE!
about a month early (hear that, John D.) and as numerous as ever.
As you drive along, they plaster your whole car. It's imperative to
remove them quickly as their "juices" eat into the finish of your car.
You can see how they fly attached to each other (mating). In the
travel industry, we used to joke about their motto: "Fly United!"
This pair flied together and died together, along with 1000 more.
Several miles later, the
bugs are still with us as
we approach Arcadia,
another town rich with
history and architecture.
I took this photo only
because it is such a
vivid example of linear
perspective. Get out
your drawing board!
About two hours from Clewiston and one hour
from Arcadia, we reached our goal for the
month.Nestled under the live oak trees,
dripping with Spanish Moss, we welcome the
shade. Our site is at the end of the
campground, directly across from the Myakka
River. A man peddled by and remarked, "You
have the best spot here." With that, we went
and reserved it for April 2009, after the
couple who have it for six months leave.
When we left Lake Worth, Cor was not able to lower the TV antenna properly as the spring
and handle had fallen off. About a foot of it was protruding over the front of the rig. At 60
mph, the wind picked it up and bent it to a 90-degree angle. There is no cable here, so a
fix was in order...and fix he did! He dragged the picnic table to the front, climbed up and
bent the antenna back with a "very sophisticated tool" (his words) - the window washer.
Ecstatic with his fix, Cor struck up a
joyous jig on his air guitar. That was
shortly before his back reminded him
that moving a picnic table is not prudent.
His movement is a little more facile today.
We're off to the Social Security office this afternoon. All I want to do is change our
address for Medicare. I dialed the only number listed anywhere. After a 4 min. speech, I
was told to dial 1 for English. I did. For ten more minutes I was bombarded with Spanish as
I kept hitting "1" and finally yelling, "Engllish, English, No speaky spagnole, Help, Operator"
for another ten minutes. Finally did it online, but I can't change the bank I want my checks
deposited to online. Yesterday, we arrived at the office five minutes after they closed.
END OF SAGA FOR TODAY